New Stuff / Laminating Films
Enjoy a stronger and tougher plane! - The name 'New Stuff' came from the first folks that started experimenting with laminating film on their planes, they simply refereed to it as the 'New Stuff'. Word got around that this 'new stuff' really made a plane perform, and made it much more crash resistant.
Often times we will build an EPP plane without any spars and no tape as we know the New Stuff will result in a very strong and very clean structure. (We do recommend bidirectional fiber tape for combat planes.) Thanks to the tough and flat surface of the film, most planes will enjoy a more accurate airfoil that will perform better.
We like the 5 mil CP film for most normal projects, and the 10 mil CP or the 7 mil DI for heavy planes where we are not as concerned about weight, or just need a super tough skin. The 3 mil is great for molded foam planes with a lot of compound curves, and the 1.7 mil is excellent for super light builds.
New Stuff is flat opaque on one side, that is the adhesive side. To apply, you iron it on, but it is a little different then other iron on films. New Stuff has a very low shrink ratio, so you no longer need to tack the edges and work your way into the center. Just the opposite, take an iron that is about 200 - 250F (hot enough to boil a drop of water on the face of the iron) and start from the center and work out towards the edges. No need to pull the film tight, just remove any ripples and iron it down. As heat is applied, the adhesive will activate and the film will turn crystal clear. Since the film hardy shrinks, no more twisted and tweaked airframes! Most people find New stuff much easier to apply than traditional films.
We stock CP and DI films. Here is a brief breakdown of their differences:
DI Films - This film offers excellent rigidity and goes onto a wing very nicely. DI is stiffer than CP and is an excellent choice for wings. The down fall of DI is that it does not take to tight bends or curves as well as CP films. We really like DI for wings and other mostly flat surfaces. A wing covered with DI will be stronger and straighter than a wing covered in CP Film. DI films also feature UV protection.
CP Films - CP films are the traditional 'New Stuff' and work well for many applications. It works much better than DI films on compound curves like fuselages and wing tips. If you can only have one film, then you probably want the CP film. CP films are more flexible and may be a better choice when extreme crash protection is desired.
An ideal build for a wing would be CP film around the trailing edge and wing tips, and the rest of the wing covered in DI.
1.7 mil CP film weighs .13oz or 3.9 grams per square foot.
3 mil CP film weighs .23 oz or 6.6 grams per square foot.
5 mil CP film weighs .38 oz or 10.8 grams per square foot.
10 mil CP film weighs .81 oz or 23.1 grams per square foot.
3 mil DI film weighs .26 oz or 7.4 grams per square foot.
5 mil DI film weighs .46 oz or 13.1 grams per square foot.
7 mil DI film weighs .68 oz or 19.4 grams per square foot.
We get a lot of questions about putting the films onto wooden airplanes. We do not recommend it for this use, though a strip of 7 or 10 mil film on the bottom of a wooden fuselage makes for a great landing skid. We have also laminated thin balsa with the film and resulted in very strong structures. We commonly wrap our elevons on our combat wings with new stuff. But it would be very hard to wrap an open structure wooden plane, the film will stick to the wood but it will not "tighten" onto the structure like other films.
Sold by the linear foot. (30 cm) If you order a quantity of 10, you will receive a roll that is 10 feet long x 18" wide.
- Brilliant product Review by Robin
Robin in Oz (Posted on 4/1/15)
- This "New Stuff" is good Review by Todd
- fuel proof characteristics CP and DI film Review by joel
- Great product, easy to use, simple to apply Review by Colen Casey
This stuff is great, for large curves you can cut it so it wraps the curve. Iron down the first part of the curve, then overlap the second part from the cut and iron it down when done its crystal clean and you have to really look hard to find the overlap
Another use I found was for repairs. since it does have adhesive on it you can put a piece over the crack iron it down and its done (need to do on both sides or apply glue and let cure before applying film in its replacement (Posted on 2/17/13)
When I buy 10 of the 1.7mil sheets what exactly am I buying? Example, 10 sheets that are (width length) etc. am I buying a roll 10 feet long and 18 inches wide?Thanks
How do you color the model? Does paint stick to this film?
There are a few options:
- Paint the plane before applying the film.
- Apply vinyl over the film.
- Iron on a low temp product like Econocoat.
Our personal favorite is to use scrap sign vinyl we get from the local sign shop for free. :)